Dolly Sods is unique for a few reasons:
First, it's the highest plateau east of the Mississippi River, with altitudes reaching nearly 2,700 feet. The high-altitude meadows, rocky hills and stunted trees gives it an almost Canadian feel.
Second, Dolly Sods is a bog. Nearly year-round, parts of the Sods are muddy, soggy and full of unique bog-lifeforms, including carnivorous plants like the Round-Leaved Sundew. Side-note: A loves bogs.
Third, Dolly Sods has been uniquely shaped by human activity. The forest was once home to the world's greatest stand of red spruce. Other giants grew as well, including the largest tree ever cut in West Virginia (a white oak nearly 1,000 years old measuring 10 feet in diameter...30 feet above its base). The logging era decimated the old growth forest, which was completely clearcut. Then during World War II, the US Army made use of Dolly Sods as a training (bombing) ground, reasoning that it resembled mountainous Italy. Still today, unexploded ordinance is found. All this is to say that the current beautiful vistas come at great environmental cost.
So toward the end of June, myself, A and a co-worker set off for the Allegheny Mountains of West Virginia, specifically the Monongahela National Forest. After driving up the fire road, we found ourselves atop the plateau...big views and big meadows. We locked the car and set out on a bluebird day.
Gearing Up
Before long, we realized the meadows were full of blueberry bushes. Can't overstate how many. This place is full of them. Hiking the Sods in August, when the bushes are all ripe, would be incredible. Despite it being June, we had no problem snacking our way through the wilderness.
Look, blueberries! A is stoked.
Continuing down the trail, we approached Red Creek, named for its tea-colored water. Despite looking fishy, these waters are too acidic for trout. We promised that next trip we would stash cold beer in the creek.
Red Creek
My favorite part of this hike was the constantly changing natural scenery. We'd climb through quiet pine and hardwood forests, then open up to gigantic meadows of blueberry, then dive back into pine, only to emerge on a rocky ridge with spectacular views of West Virginia below. You can't get bored.
High-altitude meadow changing to forest
Rocky ridge with classic sogginess, A picking the best path
Wind-smoothed rocks of the high ridge
After some indecision about campsite location (mostly due to limited water sources), we opted for a quiet, shaded pine grove. With tents up and dinner cooked, we set off collecting blueberries as the sun sank. We found a boulder overlooking the valley to sip whiskey, eat berries, and watch the day end.
As we walked back to our tents by headlamp, we learned from our backpacking neighbors that a black bear had just been on the trail. Makes sense given all the berries!
Also of note, this was the first time sleeping in our new REI Half-Dome tent. We woke to great 360-degree tent views.
Rise n shine!
After hiking the ridge Saturday, the Sunday route descended back down toward Red Creek. This part of the trail is notoriously muddy, but we managed to stay pretty dry. With temps in the 80s, I opted for a dip in the tea water. Great choice! We then hiked back up into the meadows, perhaps the most strenuous stretch.
New section of Red Creek
Sundew, a rare carnivorous bog plant, identified by A!
The meadows of Dolly Sods
Hot, exhausted and happy, we hit the parking lot by early afternoon. The views from the lot (below) aren't too shabby, either. Once in the car, we straight-lined to our favorite Mexican spot. After two days of berries and freeze-dried meals...steak fajitas hit the spot.
A trip for the books. Hype totally worth it. Dolly Sods...we'll be back.
West Virginia: "Wild and Wonderful"
Route for reference
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